Safety while flying or being on the ground, has always been one of my main concerns in paramotoring. In order to avoid collisions in the air, the pilot needs to be seen by others. This is why I installed a strobe light on my paramotor. I wanted to be more than compliant to Part103. I wanted to be seen by others.
The strobe I used is a Kuntzleman Electronics  Inc., item #SC103.
(for more info, please visit:
The output of this strobe is far greater than a "D" cell battery unit has.


                                                                               I used two radio control car battery packs to achieve the required 12 Volts. One pack has six elements and the other one has four.
                                                                                               I wired them in series to the strobe light and installed an ON/OFF switch, next to the master switch of the paramotor.



                                         I utilized the same connectors for the battery and the charger that I purchased from the Hobby Store. The Charger is a special one, used only for this type of batteries.


These batteries will last approximately 2 hours per charge. The output is very strong and is guaranteed to light up the glider. The strobe is fastened to the upper part of the cage, giving light in all directions.


                                                                                                                           Custom Redrive Mount

Having had one bolt shear on the standard Adventure reduction drive spacers, I decided to have a one piece mount machined from 7075 aircraft Aluminum. It is not cost effective but it is strong and much safer. I would like to mention that "Adventure" has introduced a new style "H" bracket for the same purpose. I strongly recommend to all Adventure owners to switch to the reinforced redrive mount.


                                                                                                                                   Fuel system improvements

                                      Getting tired of having the fuel line and vent right in the cap and fuel spilling on my leg, I routed the fuel line directly into the top of the tank where it meets the fiberglass body.
                                                                                One grommet was used to form a seal at the top of the tank and a second one, to protect the fuel line around the fiberglass.



I got rid of the fuel line guide tube and installed a connector at the end of the fuel line, using a model airplane muffler nipple screwed into the top of the fuel cap and running the vent tube up high. This routing avoids any fuel spillage when bending down. I recommend using model fuel line for gasoline and not the kind for nitro mixes.

                                                                                                                                      The "Wally-Wally Tush-Cush"

                                                                                         Most seat boards are  made of wood or hard plastic with no padding and are relatively heavy and not very comfortable.
                    Using 1/8" coroplast, I cut four matching pieces identical in shape  with the original board. I also added 2" foam padding and I used duct tape on the edges, to hold all pieces together



                                                                                                                                Carabiner Torque Canceling System

A longer carabiner used only on the right side of an Adventure paramotor will successfully cancel the torque. The principle is simple: The higher, non-symmetrical hook in point on the right side will create a longer arm, slightly offsetting the torque. The thrust will be slightly bigger on the right side thus "speeding-up" the right side of the wing and counteracting the right turn tendency generated by torque.
Such a carabiner can be purchased from Mo Jo's Gear. It is called Stubai Fly Parabiner, item # H07526.


                                                                        I used a less expensive AIRBOX than Adventure sells. MoJo's Gear part #P48800 intake silencer.
I installed a mounting bracket of a 1"x1/8" Aluminum strap. Other needed items were: a few bolts, lock nuts, grommets and a different hose clamp than the one supplied with the airbox.


                                                                                                            "Nickovox" kick-in strap

This was the brainchild of Nick Scholtes. I sewed loops into the seat corners using tie-down strap material, heavy duty thread and a large needle. The thread was waxed. A pair of pliers will help get through the existing seams.
The shorter loop pulls the leg straps out of your groin area. I lay the cord over my left leg while standing. This makes it easier to find the cord with your foot. Please note the seat-belt pads for comfort.



                                                                                                       Reserve Parachute Mounting

                                                                                  I used the"Style" reserve routing as found on my Sup-Air gliding harness. Patience is the key if you want to"sew" for that many hours.




Below, I present my accessories. They are: a modified helmet with integrated head set, push to talk Nickovox/Radio setup, baseball gloves for summer and good ski gloves for winter flying.
The camera bag holds the radio and its accessories in flight.


                                                                                                                                                       Adventure Back Padding
                                                                                                                                                ( no photo)

To avoid the well known "Adventure Run" (engine tilted fare too high during the take-off run) I removed the padding in the back, just below the bottom two clips. Use the leftover as a set pad if you like. This simple modification will adjust your thrust line on the ground to avoid leaning too far back.
                                                                                                                                                                     The HEIS
                                                                                                                                   (High Energy Ignition System)
                                                                                                                                                                                                       (no photo)
                   This is the best investment for a Solo 210 engine owner. It will change the performance of your engine beyond  your expectation. This is the best thing you can do to a Solo.

Before ending this article, I would like to thank all the folks at IPPA at Nick's  Intl. Paradrome. Without their help, patience and input, the above improvements would have never been.

   Walter Hines


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